Fuchsia eye shadow is basically the organic chemistry of makeup. It’s incredibly, incredibly difficult to pull off. But that didn’t stop Patrick Ta from using it on Sophia Bush at the 2017 Screen Actor’s Guild Awards. In fact, he gladly took on the challenge. “I know that it was probably scary for her, but I thought that if anyone could pull it off, it would be her,” he said. “It was something different for her and for me and I was super excited about it.” That didn’t mean, however, that he could just slap on neon fuchsia eye shadow and be done with it. These were the five key rules he kept in mind when executing the look:

1. Go strong or go home. “You have to do this look with intention,” said Ta. “You need to use a bold, saturated shade of pink, otherwise you’re going to look like your eyes are irritated.” These days, your options for bold shadows are endless (you can find tons of brights in some of our favorite palettes), but Ta had to go one step further to make sure the color on Bush’s eyes looked as intense on camera as it did in real life. After putting down a layer of pink blush along the creases of the eyes (Ta mixed Chanel Powder Blushes in Vibration and Rouge Profond), he then went over that with Chanel’s Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in La Sensuelle. “Because of the texture, it really stuck to the lid,” he explained. Then, he broke out the blush again to soften the edges of the lipstick.

2. But don’t go overboard. “I made sure to put the lipstick just up to the creases and not above, otherwise, it would have looked crazy,” said Ta. He also brushed the fuchsia blush along her lower lash lines, but explains that when trying this look at home, you can always skip that step and keep the color constrained to the top lids.

3. Add depth. This may be the most important step in the process. Once he was happy with the fuchsia smoke around her eyes, Ta broke out the Quadra Eyeshadow in Tissé Cambon, buffing the deep purple shadow into the outer corners and using a pencil brush to trace it along the top and bottom lashes. “This gives the eyes dimension,” which is non-makeup artist speak, means it enhances the shape of the eyes. He also coated the lashes with black mascara.

4. Keep it fresh. “Because the eye is so intense, I wanted to keep the skin as fresh and natural as possible,” says Ta. “So to do that, I sheered out the foundation with a little bit of oil so that you could see the texture of her skin underneath.”

5. And finally, lighten up the lips. Ta wanted Bush’s makeup to be monochromatic—that her eyes matched her lips that matched her dress. But doing a strong pink lip would bring this look right into clown town. “I wanted to find a lipstick that was the same color but sheer so the eyes could be the star of the show.” Lucky for Ta, he got to play with Chanel’s new lip crayons that were sheer, but still pigmented enough to last Bush through the night. “I’m so impressed with the formula—they add just the right amount of shine and definition.


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